Театральные десятые годы: 1910–1919
Adlington, Lucy, Great War Fashion: Tales from the History Wardrobe, The History Press, 2013.
Doyle, Peter, First World War Britain: 1914–1919, Shire, 2012.
Gosling, Lucinda, Great War Britain: The First World War at Home, The History Press, 2014.
Nicholson, Virginia, Among the Bohemians: Experiments in Living 1900–1939, Viking, 2002.
Nicholson, Virginia, The Great Silence, John Murray, 2010.
О внутривенных инъекциях парфюма: «Perfume Now Injected», New York Times, 1 October 1912.
О «Русском балете» как источнике вдохновения для парфюмов: Davinia Caddy, The Ballets Russes and Beyond: Music and Dance in Belle-Époque Paris, Cambridge University Press, 2012.
О парфюмах в театре: «Inspiring an Actress to Act by Giving Her a Perfume «Jag», The Washington Herald, 23 May 1915; «Perfume Jag» Is Aid to Acting», Oakland Tribune, 16 May 1915.
NARCISSE NOIR
Jean Nathan, The House of Satan, Alfred A. Knopf, 1926.
For the judgement on Caron’s attempt to protect the intellectual property of Narcisse Noir, see: Caron Corporation v. Conde, Limited, New York Supreme Court, 213 N.Y. Supp. 785.
Репортажи из сала суда во время слушаний по делу Narcisse Noir: Patent and Trademark Review, Volume 23, 1923; The Business Law Journal, Volume 8, 1926; The Trade-mark Reporter, Volume 17, 1927.
SPECIAL № 127
О рекламе, в которой упоминаются аристократы-покровители парфюмов: La Belle Assemblée, 1 December 1812.
POINSETTIA
История девушек «Гэйети»: http://www.vam.ac.uk/users/node/9009, посещение 28 апреля 2015 г.
О новом театре «Гэйети» и его шоу: http://www.arthurlloyd.co.uk/GaietyTheatreLondon.htm, accessed 28 April 2015.
A review of Peggy at the Gaiety Theatre in 1911, The Play Pictorial, Volume XVIII, Number 107.
Olive May quote in Poinsettia advertisement, Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News, Volume 76, 1912.
Leslie Stuart, «The Lass with the Lasso» in Peggy, 1911.
NUIT DE CHINE
О Поле Пуаре и его парфюмах: Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton, PoIret, Yale University Press, 2007; Paul PoIret, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul PoIret, trans. Stephen Haden Guest, V&A Publishing, 2009.
«An Alchemist in Perfumes», Vogue, American edition, 1 August 1916.
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О бале «1002-я ночь»: Aleksandr Vasil’ev, Beauty in Exile: The Artists, Models, and Nobility who Fled the Russian Revolution and Influenced the World of Fashion, Harry N. Adams, 2000.
Robert Forrest Wilson, Paris on Parade, Bobbs-Merrill, 1925.
Anne Archbald, “The Vanity Box’, Theatre Magazine, December 1922.
ESS VIOTTO
О женщинах, работавших во время Первой мировой войны: Susan R. Grayzel, Women’s Identities at War: Gender, Motherhood, and Politics in Britain and France during the First World War, University of North Carolina Press, 1999; Deborah Thom, Nice Girls and Rude Girls: Women Workers in World War I, I.B. Tauris, 1998.
Bronnley advertisement for Ess Viotto, featured in The Sketch, Volume 90, 1915.
ENGLISH LAVENDER
The Sketch, 7 April 1915.
«The Lavender Country», The Farmer’s Magazine, July 1872.
The Sketch, 13 December 1916.
LE BOUQUET PRÉFÉRÉ DE L’IMPÉRATRICE
Обзор советских парфюмов: http://www.realussr.com/ussr/soviet-brands-the-scent-of-communism-part-1-of-2/, accessed 28 April 2015; Susan E. Reid, “Gender and the Destalinisation of Consumer
Taste in the Soviet Union Under Khrushchev’ in Emma Casey and
Lydia Martens (eds), Gender and Consumption: Domestic Cultures and the Commercialisation of Everyday Life, Ashgate, 2007.
Elena Skrjabina, After Leningrad: A Diary of Survival During World War II, Southern Illinois University Press, 1978.
О культурности в советской культуре: Oleg Kharkhordin, «Reveal and Dissimulate: A Genealogy of Private Life in Soviet Russia» in Jeff Weintraub and Krishan Kumar (eds), Public and Private in Thought and Practice: Perspectives on a Grand Dichotomy, University of Chicago Press, 1997.
«Perfume Commemorates Joint Space Mission’, Lakeland Ledger, 16 July 1975.
LE FRUIT DÉFENDU
Более подробно о черно-белом фильме «Белоснежка»: Robert K. Klepper, Silent Films, 1877–1996: A Critical Guide to 646 Movies, McFarland, 1999.
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CHYPRE
О Франсуа Коти и его парфюмерном бизнесе: Roulhac B. Toledano and Elizabeth Z. Coty, François Coty: Fragrance, Power, Money, Pelican, 2009.
MITSOUKO
Об истории парфюмов Guerlain: Colette Fellous, Guerlain, Denoël, 1987.
Более подробно о линейке парфюмов Guerlain: http://www.monsieur-Guerlain.com, посещение 28 апреля 2015 г.
Ревущие двадцатые: 1920–1929
Anonymous, Meditations of a Flapper. By One, Dranes, 1922.
Brogan, Hugh, The Penguin History of the United States of America, 2nd edn, Penguin, 2001.
Gorman, Daniel, The Emergence of International Society in the 1920s, Cambridge University Press, 2012.
Marshik, Celia (ed.), The Cambridge Companion to Modernist Culture, Cambridge University Press, 2014.
Miller, Nathan, New World Coming: The 1920s and the Making of Modern America, DaCapo Press, 2004.
Moore, Lucy, Anything Goes: A Biography of the Roaring Twenties, Atlantic, 2009.
Peretti, Burton W., Nightclub City: Politics and Amusement in Manhattan, University of Pennsylvania Press, 2007.
Taylor, D. J., Bright Young People: The Rise and Fall of a Generation 1918–1940, Vintage, 2008.
О том, как школьницы ели парфюм: «Oppose Perfume Eaters», New York Times, 29 January 1924.
«Perfume and Toilet Goods Trades on Solid Basis», The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, March 1921.
О реакции торговли на введение «сухого закона»: «A National Menace», The
American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, June 1921.
«Mi Lady’s Perfumes», Variety, March 1927.
Stefan Zweig, The Post Office Girl, trans. Joel Rotenberg, Sort Of Books, 2009.
«$20,000 Perfume on Truck is Stolen», New York Times, 26 November 1927.
Howard S. Neiman, «The Psychology of Trademarks», The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, May 1921.
HABANITA
Рекламу сигарет Abdulla можно посмотреть на: http://tomboystyle.blogspot. co.uk/2014/06/moment-abdulla-advertisements-of-1920s.html, посещение 10 мая 2015 г.
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О популяризации сигарет: Allan M. Brandt, The Cigarette
Century: The Rise, Fall, and Deadly Persistence of the Product that Defined America, Basic Books, 2007; Francesca Middleton, Women, Smoking and the Popular Imagination of the 1920s: From Squalor to Glamour, University of London, 2002.
CHANEL № 5
История Chanel № 5: Tilar J. Mazzeo, The Secret of Chanel № 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume, HarperCollins, 2010.
Биография Габриель Шанель: Lisa Chaney, Chanel: An Intimate Life, Penguin, 2012; Axel Madsen, Coco Chanel: A Biography, Bloomsbury, 2009; Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, trans. Euan
Cameron, Pushkin Press, 2008; Justine Picardie, Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life, Harper, 2013; Hal Vaughan, Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel’s Secret War, Vintage, 2012.
NUIT DE NOËL
Fred W. Longshaw and Richard E. Thompson, «At the Christmas Ball», performed by Bessie Smith, Preachin’ the Blues, 1925.
«New York Heeds the Call of Fancy Dress», Vogue, American edition, April 15 1922.
BAIN DE CHAMPAGNE
История шампанского: Serena Sutcliffe, A Celebration of Champagne, Mitchell Beazley, 1988.
О пристрастии Эдуарда VII к купанию в ванных с шампанским: Jane Ridley, Bertie: A Life of Edward VII, Chatto & Windus, 2012.
О влиянии «сухого закона» на США: Edward Behr,
Prohibition: Thirteen Years That Changed America, Skyhorse Publishing, 2011; Daniel Okrent, Last Call: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition, Scribner Book Company, 2011.
«Earl Carroll Producer», The Milwaukee Sentinel, 1 November 1926.
«News of «Wild Party» Starts Investigation», Modesto News Herald, 25 February 1926.
О суде над Эрлом Кэрроллом: http://law.justia.com/cases/federal/appellate-courts/F2/16/951/1481403/, посещение 11 мая 2015 г.
Отчет о суде над Эрлом Кэрроллом и приговор: «Earl Carroll on Trial for Perjury in Bathtub Case», The Montreal Gazette, 21 May 1926; “Earl Carroll Will Start for Prison on April 12”, The Pittsburgh Press, 4 April 1927.
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Dorothy Parker, «Inventory Poem», Enough Rope Poems, Bony & Liveright, 1926.
Robert Forrest Wilson, Paris on Parade, Bobbs-Merrill, 1925.
LE DANDY
Oliver Herford, The Deb’s Dictionary, Methuen & Co., 1932.
История дендизма в 1920-х годах: Catherine R. Mintler, «From Aesthete to Gangster: The Dandy Figure in the Novels of F. Scott Fitzgerald», The F. Scott Fitzgerald Review, Volume 8, 2010.
О джазовом музыканте Лесли Хатчинсоне и его пристрастии к Chanel № 5, see: Charlotte Breese, Hutch, Bloomsbury, 1999.
Биография Стивена Тенанта: Philip Hoare, Serious Pleasures: Life of Stephen Tennant, Penguin, 1992.
Интервью с правнуком Стивена Тенанта, в котором упоминаются парфюмы Worth: Rebecca Wallersteiner, “The Brightest Young Thing”,
The Lady, 30 November 2001.
О возвращении имени D’Orsay как названия парфюмерного дома в двадцатом веке: http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/D’Orsay – (maison_de_parfum), посещение 11 мая 2015; Nick Groom, The New Perfume Handbook, 2nd edn, Blackie Academic and Professional, 1997.
D’Orsay advertisement for Le Dandy, featured in Vogue, American edition, 13 October 1930.
GARDENIA
Торговые отчеты о возрастающей популярности гардении в парфюмах и косметике: Druggists’ Circular, Volume 80, 1936;
Perfumery and Essential Oil Record, Volume 28, 1937.
Aldous Huxley, Point Counter Point, Doubleday, Doran and Co., 1928.
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