Steps to Healthier Trees(975)
1. Using a hose or a water bath, remove all soil from the roots. Work out clumps of soil from between the roots using your fingers. Let rootballs soak for several hours if they are too dry to work.
2. Prune excessively long and defective roots. From this point on, roots must be kept submerged or wrapped in wet cloth.
3. Dig a shallow hole only as deep as the root system and at least twice as wide. In the center, form a soil mound to support the root crown.
4. Arrange the roots radially over the mound and backfill with the same soil that came out of the hole. Do not use any type of soil amendment.
5. Water well, using the water from Step 1, which will contain nutrients and microbes. Add more soil as holes develop, and gently firm the soil.
6. Mulch all disturbed soil with 4 inches of coarse organic mulch, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk.
7. Water your tree well during the first year of establishment. You have removed a good portion of the root system and its ability to take up water, and nutrients will be temporarily impaired.
8. Keep it simple and natural: Do not prune the top of the tree or add expensive but pointless transplant supplements.
Text 2
Steps to the Perfectly Planted Tree (3389)
A tree well planted will live for decades, even centuries. Fail to plant it properly and your investment in years of care results in disappointment. Most of these problems can be avoided altogether if you select the right species, plant it properly and perform routine maintenance.
Step 1 – Choose a vetted species
Every city in America has a list of approved street trees. These have been carefully selected for beauty, size, longevity, rooting characteristics, litter potential, structural integrity, climatic suitability, and resistance to any major pests or diseases. Choosing an unvetted tree is much like investing in a company without first seeing an earnings report.
Step 2 – Location
A few feet in one direction or another can be enough to turn a great tree into a problem that requires its removal. Before planting your tree, take time to study the proposed location and how the tree canopy will influence everything around it after reaching full size. A suitable location also includes growth and environmental factors such as adequate sunlight, sufficient root zone and drainage. Never plant a tree unless you know its ultimate height and diameter at maturity.
Step 3 – Hole Size
Most landscape trees are sold in nursery containers that range from 5 to 15 gallon pots. The tree's root ball is the mass of soil and roots that sits within the container. The hole you dig must have a diameter large enough to accommodate the entire root ball with ease. A rough rule is to dig a hole twice the diameter of the root ball.Never shave a root ball to make it smaller so it fits into a planting hole; dig a bigger hole.
|
|
|
Step 4 – Hole Depth
Note the surface of the soil relative to the base of the trunk while the tree is still in its container. When the root ball sits in the hole you dig, that surface must be perfectly level with the surface of the surrounding natural soil. Use this as your guide to how deep to dig your hole. The rootball cannot stick up higher nor drop down lower than this elevation.
To help you set the tree at the perfect elevation, use a broom handle as a leveling guide. Simply set the root ball into the hole, then place the leveling guide so it spans the hole at its center. If there's a gap under the leveling guide your root ball is too low. Remove the root ball, add soil, then replace and gauge it again for accuracy.
Step 5 – Backfill
There will be a pile of soil excavated from the hole. Where soil is not ideal, it’s wise to mix compost into the excavated pile to make the backfill more like the potting soil already around the roots. Lightening heavy soil helps the tree root out into new soil more quickly than it might if there was only clay in this area. Replace the soil around the root ball in layers a few inches deep. Compact each layer with the handle-end of your shovel, tamping it down as you go to eliminate any air pockets. With a larger hole you can use your boot the same way.
If you live where soil PH tends to be on the acidic side, add some phosphorous to the backfill to make nitrogen more readily available to the new roots.
Step 6 – Make a Well
To give your tree a good start, be sure there's plenty of water delivered to the root ball and the backfill. Create a well around the base of the tree to concentrate water directly over the root ball.
Step 7 – Watering
Watering the tree after planting is essential to preventing the root ball from drying out, which can be very difficult to re-wet once the tree is in the ground. This is why watering-in requires thorough saturation of the root ball and the backfill. Use the garden hose to fill the well you created around the base of the tree. After this water percolates down into the soil, fill the well a second time. If you encounter very hot, dry or windy weather in the days after you plant the tree, repeat this step every day or two so that there is plenty of moisture available to the roots.
|
|
|
After you water in the well, check the elevation of the root ball. Sometimes it will settle after you water it in, causing the base of the trunk to sit too low where it's vulnerable to crown rot.
Text 3
Wound Response (1585)
Trees have a natural defense response to wounds and pruning cuts. They form four types of walls to compartmentalizing the area thus preventing the spread of decay organisms. The decay or injury remains but is sealed off and does not increase in size if the walls are stronger than the decay organisms. The storage capacity and function of the injured part is lost forever.
Wall 1 is formed by plugging the vertical vascular system vessels following an injury. It is the weakest wall but can slow the vertical spread of decay. Wall 2 is formed at the outer edge of a growth ring. It is a weak barrier but does offer resistance to inward spread of decay.
Each growth ring is subdivided into compartments with a radial wall (Wall 3). It is the strongest of the three walls and provides resistance to lateral spread. It presents a maze of physical obstacles as well as a chemical barrier.
Wall 4 is formed by cambium growth after an injury. It is the strongest of all the walls. Internally, it separates the wood present at the time of injury from new wood formed as the tree grows. Externally, callus tissue develops around the injury and should eventually cover it by growing over the dead wood.
Some tree species can activate Walls 1, 2, and 3 very rapidly and maintain them so effectively that the amount of decay is limited. When a tree responds slowly or the walls are weak – infection can damage a large volume of wood.
A tree branch has a branch bark ridge, often referred to as a branch collar that separates the branch from the tree trunk. The collar is the swelling located at the base of a branch where the branch meets the trunk. The callus that forms the collar is an area of tissue that contains a chemically protective zone. The natural decay of a dead branch stops when it reaches the collar. When pruning a dead branch, do not create a new wound by cutting into the ring that forms around the dead branch.
Text 4
Дата добавления: 2018-02-28; просмотров: 221; Мы поможем в написании вашей работы! |
Мы поможем в написании ваших работ!